Churches in Brazil: Rosário dos Pretos & Bonfim

Even though the Candomble terreiros were my preferred place of worship while in Bahia, I must also point out two Catholic churches that touched my soul.

A Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos (The Church Our Lady of the Rosary of the Blacks) stands in the Pelourinho and reminds us of how the African slaves really built the city of Salvador, not the Portuguese. Although they built every church in Salvador, and I believe they built over 300, and the fact that they were forcibly converted to Catholicism, they were only allowed worship in this one church. According to Bahia-Net online, it took about one hundred years for the slaves to complete the church. Since they had to build other churches during the day, they were only allowed to work on Rosário dos Pretos at night.

There are statues of black saints and the ambiance has a unique feeling to it, unlike any other church I've ever been to. The Tuesday night mass, which begins at 6pm, is also completely unique. The mass is given in Portuguese except for the songs, which are also sung in Yoruba with the accompaniement of drums, agogo and shekere. African rhythms accompany the hallelujahs! Everyone present was singing along, clapping and dancing. The church was completely filled and many people had to stand along the sides and back of the church.

The liveliness and joy I felt there was just as sacred as any mass I've heard given in Latin. I'm trying to get a copy of the liturgy book if there is one. I would love to learn the songs.

The Senhor do Bonfim Church is set atop a hill overlooking the city. The main attraction for many believers (and non-believers alike) is the Sala dos Milagres, the Room of Miracles. Everywhere you look there is a picture of someone's beloved or a plastic replica of their diseased body part. There are notes and prayers all over the wall. It is surprisingly not as creepy as I imagined it to be, but more of a glimpse into the universal need for healing, contact with deceased loved ones and connection to the divine.